Monkeys and lostness

September 14

Last night, after having supper on the roof (something I can get used to) I retired to my cozy quarters. A beer on the balcony, a little homework - to impress my teacher, why else? - and beddy byes. During the last few rainy minutes on my balcony, while witnessing a new scooter pass by, driven by a person wearing a normal helmet and a warm jacket, I realized that KTM isn't much different to AMS. I could be standing on a balcony somewhere in AMS West, in some sleazy hotel overlooking a coffeeshop and surrounded by prozzies. In fact, apart from the last two it could be anywhere in the world: NYC, Sydney, HK, Athens... except, the people are different. So are the billboards, the architecture and the prices for cigarettes. I haven't tried any from here yet - somehow I think they might taste of exhaust fumes.

As it turns out my Nepali Guru is an 18-y/o Praline Princess named Asmita. She's only been teaching for 2 months but she's got talent. A few people had commented before on how fast she speaks but I'm a fast listener so we got through quite a lot. Afterwards she hooked me up with a good brunch (banana oatmeal, chicken noodle soup, steamed veg rolls, plain rice and chai) and we agreed I would be at the INFO HQ at 14:30. I doggy bagged some of the rolls, popped by the hotel ("Cosmic", btw), and went to pay ther other half of my monk suit. At the same time I got three badges sewn to my other shirt - 2 'ohm' signs and an indescribable work of art (see picture? soon).

15:00. Taxi. Excursion. "Monkey Temple". Awesome! Traffic, chaos, outskirts, poverty grows, hill side, temples, monkeys, view. Captivating. We walked around (this is Kamal from INFO and I), lots to see (pictures again). I shot some footage inside a Buddhist temple, including chanting monks. Outside I remembered I needed some mala beads (used while chanting mantras) and luckily there were roughly 2000 to choose from - mine are Tibetan. At first they cost 800 Rs, but after some professional BS'ing, the price came down to 300, including another lucky charm. It also helped that I only had 300 on me, but that didn't occur to me until I had the price down to, and was willing to pay, 500. Kamal had the time of his life. "You're such a talker", he said, and after I told him a bit of my background he understood ;).

Afternoon highlight - on the way back down we got close to monkeys! I love die monkeys! So I shot some footage of a mother and child eating, and then took some pictures of another. I remembered the doggy bagged veg and tossed it a roll. When he had gobbled that one I took off my backpack and slowly went closer. I got to about 2 feet away and handed it a roll, which he snatched like a spoilt little rodent. It put a smile on my face for the rest of the day, though. A much needed one. My evening was the equivalent of 493 near-death experiences - to put it lightly. Kamal had to visit a friend in hospital, so we went there first. We had a quick sneak peak of the ICU before we were asked to wait half an hour. Kamal left for a while, but I was fine - just chilling in a hospital waiting area with a book, minding my own beezewax, like at home! In the end he had to wait a while longer so he offered to get me a taxi back to Thamel, and Cosmic. I said I'd rather walk the 20 orso minutes, so he gave me directions.

Two and a half hours later..... just let that sink in..... sunk?.... OK - I finally got to the hotel. I think that navagating around AMS West would have been a tad easier. I got to Thamel (the area) alright, because that was just "go straight along a huge main road (simply beautiful chaos) and turn left." Asked for directions a few times and hey presto, welcome to Thamel. Then the bizarreness started. Miles after miles of traffic packed shoping streets, smog, unpaved roads. Cloth shops, trekking shop and offices, instruments, CD's, shoes (nice ones!), sidewalk barbecues (biiiiig nono), fruit, even more beautiful chaos and so much noise that after 10 minutes you don't notice it anymore. And this man just plodded along like some agile, determined human ball of energy. I just walked the pace, occasionally darting between cars and bicycle taxis, leaping onto sidewalks to make room for motorbikes which looked painful upon impact. Singing, humming, chanting, aloud and to myself, saying hello t smiling faces. A few miles down the road I found a huge temple in the middle of a square. I walked around it looking for a spot to place my butt and eat. Three quarters of the way round a man called me over. He and his friend were sitting outside their shop. He commented on my scarf - which was Islamic according to him. I said I know the concept of the pattern is Palestinian, so he was probably right. He asked where I was from and what I was doing wearing this combination of Hindu and Muslim clothes. We quickly moved on to politics. India, China, the US, the future. I want to go back and speak with him some more tomorrow.

Directions, Thamel, hotel, go. Highlight of the evening - after having gotten lost, directions, lost again, directions again, called Kamal 'coz it was getting late, lost again, still jolly - this kid came up to me with a ball of hashish the size of a mega gobstopper. I told him thanks but no thanks and asked whether he knew Cosmic. Nope. "But come, I ask my boss". So there's this 15-y/o kid hashish dealer boss, and he doesn't know either. So we're chatting away, the smaller one cracked me up, he was hilariously random and probably couldn't come down to save his life, when two whiteys passed. So I said to one.... er, ok, this is how the conversation went in my mind:

"you! I have special price for you!"
[playing along] "me? Ohh, how nice, what you have?"
"dude, check out the size of this kids hash"
"holy shit, haha. what are you doing here?"
"I dunno, hussling on the street wiv a couple of niggas, and you?"
"just passing by.... er, how long have you been here?"
"oh, about 2 days"
"[referring to my clothes] "man, you sure know how to blend in!"
[laughter]

Martin and Daniel from Norway. Awesome! We stood talking for a while and it got more random. Some kid came along asking for whatever so we just took the piss a bit. Then he started doing this thing with his hands, like a rapper, so I asked if he was going to give us a show. He said nothing - we started beatboxing. Still nothing, then it became awkward. I could've sworn he tried to grab Martins nuts so I gave him a mouthful of Nepali and so did M but he didn't move. He did look like a chicken starring into the headlights of a loaded pump action sawed off double barreled shotgun, so we left. Their hotel was around the corner so I asked for directions here, got their number and promised the receptionist a present if I actually found it this time. I did, so now I hope Asmita can help me find the perfect gift after our lesson tomorrow. Dinner. Beer. Balcony. Journal. Sleep.